Maira Valley
Maira valley is one of those places you truly need to experience to appreciate. It was recommended to us by our dear friends Udo and Angela who are avid hikers and cyclists and so we arrived in the valley with no expectations but high hopes.
As we entered the valley we stopped at a village for lunch. We parked in a small lot and walked a cobbled street to the first restaurant we could find and it turned out to be amazing. It was crowded with locals and we were lucky to be seated.
The Devil’s Bridge (1428) in the town of Dronero
After lunch, we drove through the quaint village only to discover that it is one of the towns to visit in the area. We passed a unique bridge with teeth-like railing that was constructed in the Middle Ages. Called the Devils bridge, it was iconic to the region and we just stumbled upon it. Already a good start.
The Maira Valley rolling out into the distance.
We still had a long stretch to drive because our lodgings were close to the end of the valley. As we snaked inward, we eventually stopped at a small cafe for a rest break and some coffee. Another discovery along recommended hiking and biking trails. We felt like we stumbled into another Mūrren and our few days in the area barely begun.
Our lodgings for the next few days
We stayed at Locanda Ceaglia that offered e-bikes and half board (breakfast and dinner was included in the room rate). Everything you needed for your Italian Alps adventure was offered.
The food was voluminous for the hearty appetite that spent the day hiking or biking and needing replenishment.
All the guests arrived after the dinner bell rang at 7pm. We all ate the same things. Usually an appetizer, then a salad, a hearty soup, a pasta dish, a vegetable dish, a meat dish, and a dessert.
With views like these, who needs anything else? Literally outside our room, this is what we see every morning
Greetings from Locanda Ceaglio. We loved this rustic resort in the Italian Alps ideal for hiking and biking. Totally recommend for the adventurous spirit.
They had an excellent wine selection and we could start a bottle on a day and finish it the next day. We just left it on our table which never changed the week we were there and they’d bring our wine out again the next day. Their menu changed daily and only repeated after two weeks so we never had the same thing twice. And they were happy to bring us a Grappa to digest the meal with.
On our first hiking day, we ventured out on a 5 hour stroll through rising and falling hills and passing through some active and abandoned towns in the area. It was recommended in several local hiking guides. We used our seek app to identify local flora we didn’t recognize. An adventure that had us climbing up ridges and picking our way down steep river beds....
… but we made it! We passed many villages, some abandoned, and one restaurant where we enjoyed coffee and cake. Near the end of our hike, we were again picking our way down from a climb of over 1000 feet heading back to our Locanda.
On our rest day, we drove to a village at the end of the Maira Valley where we enjoyed a fine lunch and then sat and sketched the local landscape. The construction of the buildings in the area are mostly stone and slate.
We drove this valley up and up to arrive at our start for the Marmot hike
We wanted to see marmots and the hotel recommended a valley high up in the mountains. We ascended a windy narrow road that would be very difficult for two cars in opposite directions to pass each other. Fortunately we didn’t encounter that problem and finally made it to the upper lot. It was a bit of a harrowing drive near the end.
From the lot we walked over two hours to a restaurant that would be closing for the season in a few days. We discovered one vista behind a bend and over a hill more beautiful than the next. And we saw wild horses, cows and steers, and yes, marmots. Many of those ground dwelling critters hiding behind rocks, poking out of holes, or just standing there staring at you as you pass. Some were shy and others bold.
Randy is just in awe of the rolling hills and majestic mountains
We passed through a gate and were surrounded by one hundred grazing cows and their young. We wondered should we proceed or turn back. Of course, we continued. Don't make eye contact!
Randy’s favorite photo, this truly captures the spirit of the day’s hike
At the restaurant we had a hearty lunch of polenta and taleggio cheese and a couple of beers. A simple menu but delicious. We enjoyed sitting and soaking up the beauty of the surrounding mountains.
Roads tempted us in all directions, but it was getting late and we needed to get back to the car. You would think it would get boring retracing your steps but it was just as beautiful surrounded by so much nature on such a grand scale.
The hills rolled and the pastures were spotted with goats, cattle, one enormous steer, many marmots, and lots of little birds. But try to get them in a photo...
We left Maira Valley vowing to return someday!
Breaking up the drive we stopped at the Riserva Naturale dai Ciciu del Villar that contained natural stone monuments in the shape of giant mushrooms.
The beauty of this area, and the Maira Valley in total, cannot be underestimated. If you ever get a chance to visit this area, take it! We could not have anticipated such beauty that no one talks about. It is definitely a gem to be discovered by many more people.
We just fell in love with the Maira Valley and plan to come back again for more breathtaking experiences.
